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AYDIN-ÖDEMÍŞ gelini / bridal costume.

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A bridal costume from the Aydın-Ödemiş area. Late-Ottoman, urban (small city) style, ca. 1900. Including pictures of the costume’s 15 components.
Late-Ottoman 'alınlık' (woman's forehead ornament), to be fixed on the felt hat or headscarves, using the hooks at the back of the three plaques.  From Central Anatolia, early 20th century.  With 105 thin silver Ottoman coins (= rather small change).  Some of them are totally worn out; other prove to be much older than the jewel itself: several bear the date H.1223 (1808/09 AD).  Purchased in Konya in 1994.  (Inv.n° müç041 - Kavak Costume Collection - Antwerpen/Belgium).

Late-Ottoman 'alınlık' (woman's forehead ornament), to be fixed on the felt hat or headscarves, using the hooks at the back of the three plaques.

A silk 'yazma' (headscarf), edged with large silk 'iğne oya' (Turkish needle lace).  From the Izmir region, ca. 1985.  Part of local traditional costumes, for both men and women.  (Inv.n° yaz089 - Kavak Costume Collection - Antwerpen/Belgium).

A silk 'yazma' (headscarf), edged with large silk 'iğne oya' (Turkish needle lace). From the Izmir region, ca. Part of local traditional costumes, for both men and women.n° - Kavak Costume Collection - Antwerpen/Belgium).

A bridal costume from the Aydın-Ödemiş area.  Late-Ottoman, urban (small city) style, ca. 1900. (Kavak Costume Collection - Antwerpen/Belgium).

bridal costume from the Aydın-Ödemiş area. Late-Ottoman, urban (small city) style, ca.

A silk 'yazma' (headscarf), edged with large silk 'iğne oya' (Turkish needle lace).  From the Izmir region, ca. 1985.  Part of local traditional costumes, for both men and women.  (Inv.n° yaz086 - Kavak Costume Collection - Antwerpen/Belgium).

A silk 'yazma' (headscarf), edged with large silk 'iğne oya' (Turkish needle lace). From the Izmir region, ca. Part of local traditional costumes, for both men and women.n° - Kavak Costume Collection - Antwerpen/Belgium).

Late-Ottoman necklace, from western Anatolia, ca. 1900.  Silver, coral, turquoise, copper imitation coins.  Length of the pendent: 78 mm (including coin).  Length of the chains: 2 x 23½ cm.  (Inv.n° müç039-Kavak Costume Collection - Antwerpen/Belgium).

Late-Ottoman necklace, from western Anatolia, ca. 1900. Silver, coral, turquoise, copper imitation coins. Length of the pendent: 78 mm (including coin). Length of the chains: 2 x 23½ cm. (Inv.n° müç039-Kavak Costume Collection - Antwerpen/Belgium).

Traditional hand-knitted woollen socks, for women.   From NW Anatolia, ca. 1980s.  (Inv.n° çor199 - Kavak Costume Collection - Antwerpen/Belgium).

Traditional hand-knitted woollen socks, for women. From NW Anatolia, ca.n° - Kavak Costume Collection - Antwerpen/Belgium).

Striped silk 'üçetek' (robe with three panels).  From the Aegean region, ca. 1925-1950.  White cotton lining.  Edged with an 'oya' (Turkish lace) in mercerized cotton (motif: branches & flowers, obtained by twisting the yarn).  (Inv.n° üçe018 - Kavak Costume Collection - Antwerpen/Belgium).

Striped silk 'üçetek' (robe with three panels). From the Aegean region, ca. 1925-1950. White cotton lining. Edged with an 'oya' (Turkish lace) in mercerized cotton (motif: branches & flowers, obtained by twisting the yarn). (Inv.n° üçe018 - Kavak Costume Collection - Antwerpen/Belgium).

Silver ‘muskalık’-necklace (with ‘amulet-holder’).  From eastern or southeastern Anatolia, possibly Kurdish, ca. 1900.  With niello (on the chains and dangles) and agate (dangles).  The cylinder box is 85 mm wide and has a diameter of 16 mm.  The chains are 66 cm long.   (Inv.nr. müç040 - Kavak Costume Collection - Antwerpen/Belgium).

Silver ‘muskalık’-necklace (with ‘amulet-holder’). From eastern or southeastern Anatolia, possibly Kurdish, ca. 1900. With niello (on the chains and dangles) and agate (dangles). The cylinder box is 85 mm wide and has a diameter of 16 mm. The chains are 66 cm long. (Inv.nr. müç040 - Kavak Costume Collection - Antwerpen/Belgium).

Embroidered women’s ‘cepken’ (long-sleeved vest). Late-Ottoman, Aegean region,  ca. 1900.  Part of a bridal/festive costume. Silk velvet, adorned with ‘aplike’ (appliqué) technique: the (rather thick) metal thread is first modelled into the intended design, which is fixed with a cotton yarn (mostly on paper as a base).  Then the paper is torn away, and the goldwork is sewn on to the garment. The lining has been renewed.  (Inv.n° cep057 - Kavak Costume Collection - Antwerpen/Belgium).

Embroidered women’s ‘cepken’ (long-sleeved vest). Late-Ottoman, Aegean region, ca. 1900. Part of a bridal/festive costume. Silk velvet, adorned with ‘aplike’ (appliqué) technique: the (rather thick) metal thread is first modelled into the intended design, which is fixed with a cotton yarn (mostly on paper as a base). Then the paper is torn away, and the goldwork is sewn on to the garment. The lining has been renewed. (Inv.n° cep057 - Kavak Costume Collection - Antwerpen/Belgium).

Large bridal ‘yazma’ (headscarf) from the Aegean region.  Late-Ottoman, ca. early 20th century.  Silk, embroidered with the ‘telkırma’-technique: geometrical motives obtained by sticking narrow metallic slats (often silver) through the fabric and folding them. The motifs are identical on both sides of the fabric.  Purchased in Aydın, in 2003.  (Inv.n° yaz091 - Kavak Costume Collection - Antwerpen/Belgium).

Large bridal ‘yazma’ (headscarf) from the Aegean region. Late-Ottoman, ca. early 20th century. Silk, embroidered with the ‘telkırma’-technique: geometrical motives obtained by sticking narrow metallic slats (often silver) through the fabric and folding them. The motifs are identical on both sides of the fabric. Purchased in Aydın, in 2003. (Inv.n° yaz091 - Kavak Costume Collection - Antwerpen/Belgium).

Brocaded silk ‘arkalık’ (woman's waist cloth) from the Aydın region.  Late-Ottoman provincial urban style, ca. 1925.  Part of a traditional bridal/festive costume.  To be folded diagonally, and (generally) worn on the backside.  Edged with fringes in golden metal thread, with metallic sequins worked in.  Adorned with 4 large tassels (golden metal thread, metal sequins and coral). (Inv.n° ark025 - Kavak Costume Collection - Antwerpen/Belgium).

Brocaded silk ‘arkalık’ (woman's waist cloth) from the Aydın region. Late-Ottoman provincial urban style, ca. 1925. Part of a traditional bridal/festive costume. To be folded diagonally, and (generally) worn on the backside. Edged with fringes in golden metal thread, with metallic sequins worked in. Adorned with 4 large tassels (golden metal thread, metal sequins and coral). (Inv.n° ark025 - Kavak Costume Collection - Antwerpen/Belgium).

A silk ‘yazma’ (large scarf) from the Aydın-Ödemiş area.  Part of the bridal costume (urban - small city – style), from the Aydın-Ödemiş area.  Ca. 1925-1950.  Edged with glass beads & metal sequins (on the frontside) and with a metallic ribbon (small spirals) on the backside.  (Inv.nr. yaz063 - Kavak Costume Collection - Antwerpen/Belgium).

A silk ‘yazma’ (large scarf) from the Aydın-Ödemiş area. Part of the bridal costume (urban - small city – style), from the Aydın-Ödemiş area. Ca. 1925-1950. Edged with glass beads & metal sequins (on the frontside) and with a metallic ribbon (small spirals) on the backside. (Inv.nr. yaz063 - Kavak Costume Collection - Antwerpen/Belgium).

Front and rear of a ‘göynek’ (underdress for women) with an embroidered underside.  Aegean region, ca. 1925-1950.  Part of a bridal/festive costume.  Cotton, adorned with silk & metal thread embroidery, and metal sequins.  (Inv.nr. gnk076 - Kavak Costume Collection-Antwerpen/Belgium).

Front and rear of a ‘göynek’ (underdress for women) with an embroidered underside. Aegean region, ca. 1925-1950. Part of a bridal/festive costume. Cotton, adorned with silk & metal thread embroidery, and metal sequins. (Inv.nr. gnk076 - Kavak Costume Collection-Antwerpen/Belgium).

Striped silk 'şalvar' (baggy pants), for women.  From the Aegean region, ca. 1925.  The lower parts of the trouser-legs (in white cotton fabric) have been renewed.  (Inv.n° $al049 - Kavak Costume Collection - Antwerpen/Belgium).

Striped silk 'şalvar' (baggy pants), for women. From the Aegean region, ca. 1925. The lower parts of the trouser-legs (in white cotton fabric) have been renewed. (Inv.n° $al049 - Kavak Costume Collection - Antwerpen/Belgium).

Close-ups of a bridal costume from the Aydın-Ödemiş area.  Late-Ottoman, urban style, ca. 1900. (Kavak Costume Collection - Antwerpen/Belgium).

Close-ups of a bridal costume from the Aydın-Ödemiş area. Late-Ottoman, urban style, ca.

Silver 'toka' (belt buckle), for women.  Late Ottoman, ca. end of 19th century.  Probably made in Macedonia or northern Greece.  Ca. 28 cm wide.  (Inv.n° müç203-Kavak Costume Collection - Antwerpen/Belgium).

Silver 'toka' (belt buckle), for women. Late Ottoman, ca. Probably made in Macedonia or northern Greece.n° Costume Collection - Antwerpen/Belgium).