Detail of a late-Ottoman ‘yağlık’ (large handkerchief, part of traditional festive costumes, usually worn in the waist belt). NW Turkey, 19th century. Hand embroidered, silk & metallic thread on linen. The height of embroidery is 14cm. The embroidery technique: counted stitches neat and worked reversible,not distinguishing between front and back.
Ottoman Laze, their territory, Lazistan, was part of the former kingdom of Pont and the small Byzantine empire of Trebizond. Shown with a Black Sea yatagan (laz bichaq) and a rifle. From:Les costumes populaires de la Turquie en 1873, 74 photographic plates by Pascal Sebah, published by the Imperial Ottoman Commission for the "Exposition Universelle" of Vienna in 1873.
Traditional sleeveless caftan for women, from the rural Bartin region, ca. 1925-1950. Sometimes called ‘uzun yelek’ (long vest) or (locally) ‘uskuta’. Made of a striped silk fabric; quilted and lined with white cotton. The neck is adorned with metallic (silver) thread embroidery and black & golden braid; the armholes additionally feature some (small) black silk tassels. (Inv.n° kaf013 - Kavak Costume Collection - Antwerpen/Belgium).
Front (+ close-ups) of an embroidered long-sleeved vest (called 'cepken') from the central district of the Sakarya (Adapazarı) province. Part of the traditional bridal/festive ensemble, together with a matching 'şalvar' (baggy trousers). Made ca. 1950. Adorned with silver thread embroidery on silk (‘Maraş işi'-technique), minuscule silvery spirals and small metal sequins. (Inv.n° cep034 - Kavak Costume Collection - Antwerpen/Belgium).
Quilted sleeveless caftan from the Zonguldak-Bartın region. Local name: uskuta. Made of silk ikat, lined with a white cotton fabric. Breast, neckline and armholes adorned with braid, cordage, cotton pom-poms and embroidered motifs.